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Installation instructions for Parla parquet

Timberwise has brought technical improvements to Parla products. Because of this, the products that are produced after February 2020 differ from the products that are produced before that. ParlaFix-locking system has been changed to 5G-locking system in all Parla products starting from 1.2.2020. Due to this, the new production and old production products cannot be installed together. The stores might have both old and new production batches in their stocks at the same time and we kindly ask you to pay attention to which system you are installing. It is easiest to spot the difference of the new and the old system from the text of the package sticker.

NEW 5G WISELOC INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Download installation instructions HERE.

OLD PARLAFIX INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Download installation instructions HERE.

 

5G WISELOC INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE THE INSTALLATION OF THE WOODEN FLOOR. TIMBERWISE’S LIABILITY FOR DEFECTS DOES NOT APPLY TO PRODUCTS THAT HAVE BEEN INSTALLED OR MAINTAINED IN A MANNER THAT DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.


In order to achieve the best possible installation result, pay particular attention to the following:

  1. LEVELNESS AND HUMIDITY OF THE SUBFLOOR – THE SUBFLOOR MUST ALWAYS BE CHECKED CAREFULLY TO ENSURE THAT IT MEETS THE REQUIREMENTS OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS. THE WOODEN FLOOR MUST NOT BE USED FOR COMPENSATING FOR THE DEFECTS OF THE SUBFLOOR. THE PROPERTIES OF YOUR FLOOR MAY BE SIGNIFICANTLY IMPAIRED IF A DEFECTIVE SUBFLOOR IS USED.
  2. APPEARANCE OF THE FLOOR – THE BEST AND MOST BALANCED RESULT CAN BE ACHIEVED BY INSTALLING THE BOARDS, WHICH ARE MADE OF REAL WOOD, SO THAT THE NATURAL COLOUR VARIATION AND THE CHARACTERISTICS OF WOOD ARE DISPLAYED IN THE COMPLETED FLOOR IN A WAY WHERE THE SINGLE BOARD IS A SUITABLE CHOICE TO THE NEXT BOARD.
  3. LIABILITY FOR DEFECTS – PLEASE BEAR IN MIND THAT WHEN THE FLOORBOARDS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED, YOU HAVE APPROVED THEM. DO NOT INSTALL ANY BOARDS IN A PLACE WHERE THEY DO NOT APPEAR TO BE A SEAMLESS PART OF THE WHOLE. SUCH BOARDS CAN BE USED ELSEWHERE IN THE FLOOR OR THE POSSIBLE UNSUITABLE PART CAN BE CUT OFF AND THE REMAINING PIECE CAN USED EITHER AS THE FIRST OR THE LAST BOARD IN THE ROW.
  4. EXPANSION JOINTS – CAREFULLY FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT ARE GIVEN ON EXPANSION JOINTS BELOW. FLOOR SIZE, INSTALLATION DIRECTION, FIXTURE PLACEMENT, AND SUITABLE SKIRTING BOARDS – ALL OF THESE BEAR GREAT SIGNIFICANCE WHEN YOU ARE PLANNING THE FLOOR FOR LIFE.
  5. CORRECT MAINTENANCE AND USE EXTEND THE LIFECYCLE OF THE FLOOR – SO FAMILIARISE YOURSELF WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE MAINTENANCE AND COVERING OF THE FLOOR AND THE IMPLEMENTATION OF UNDERFLOOR HEATING. YOUR WOODEN FLOOR WILL BE DURABLE AND STAY BEAUTIFUL WHEN YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.

BEFORE INSTALLATION

Quality check and liability for defects

Before you begin the installation, check the boards in sufficient lighting or daylight for possible visible defects. Also check the colour and structure of the boards. The characteristics of grades, such as knots, natural grain pattern, and colour variation, are not defects. In order to evenly distribute the boards that contain grain patterns and colour variation, we recommend selecting the boards that are to be installed at the same from different packages. Possible defective boards are to be left unused or installed at other suitable locations, such as the ends or beginnings of rows. Each installed floorboard is considered to have been approved by the installer and/or the owner. The manufacturer does not accept product complaints after the installation. The owner is responsible for checking the subfloor for possible moisture and level deviations and ensuring that all the condition requirements stipulated in these installation instructions are met in accordance with the specifications defined below before the installation of the floor. Liability for defects only covers the Timberwise floors that have been installed and maintained according to the instructions.

Timing and planning of the installation

The wooden floor is to be installed when all other possible construction work has been completed. In addition, you must also make sure that damp materials (e.g., floor screed) have dried sufficiently and that the conditions in the room are optimal for installing the wooden floor (relative humidity 35–60% and temperature +18–24°C).

Check the humidity of the subfloor before installing the wooden floor.

Since wooden floors expand and shrink less in the longitudinal than the lateral direction, we recommend installing the floor parallel to the longest wall in the room. In long and narrow spaces, the installation should always be carried out in the longitudinal direction. If the installation must, however, be carried out in the transverse direction, the floor must be glued to the underlay material. Generally, it is advisable to install the wooden floor in the direction of the light. If the subfloor is an old plank floor, the wooden floor boards are to be installed transversely in relation to it. When installing floors that are equipped with the WiseLoc system, it is easiest to start the installation by the wall that has the largest number of doorways. If either end wall has doors, start the installation of the floor by such a wall. Start at the corner and install the boards from left to right.

Expansion joints

In order to enable the expansion or shrinkage of the floor due to fluctuations in air humidity, the wooden floor must be separated from any fixed structural elements with an approximately 10mm-wide expansion joint. Expansion joints must also be used when the wooden floor is installed by gluing. Fixed structural elements include surrounding and separating walls as well as heating pipes. Expansion joints should also be left under doorframes and around other obstacles, such as pillars, stairs, kitchen islands, fireplaces, tile floors, and thresholds. Extensive continuous floor surfaces (max 10 m long and 6 m wide) also require larger expansion joints. In rooms that are over 6 metres wide, the expansion joints must be increased by 1.5 mm per each metre that exceeds 6 m. The maximum size of a continuous wooden floor surface is, without the expansion joint, 8 m in the lateral and 10 m in the longitudinal direction of the board. The expansion joints are to be covered with suitable skirting boards. NOTE! The skirting boards must always be selected according to the width of the expansion joint – not the other way around.

In addition, the following matters concerning expansion joints must also be taken into account in the installation:

  • Stairs are to be installed on the subfloor so that the wooden floor is equipped with 10 mm expansion joints around the fixing point. Any load-bearing structures of stairs (e.g., stringers or handrail supports) must never be mounted directly to the wooden floor!
  • Fixtures or load-bearing structures, such as partitions, must never be installed directly to the wooden floor, either. They lock the floor in place so that it cannot expand or shrink freely. For this reason, all fixtures (e.g., kitchen islands and cabinets) must be installed before the installation of the wooden floor. If it is desirable to install the wooden floor under fixtures, the section that is to be covered with furniture must be separated from the rest of the floor with an expansion joint. Alternatively, holes with a diameter that is 20 mm larger than the diameter of the furniture feet can be drilled to the locations where the furniture feet are to be placed, so that the weight of the furniture will be put on the subfloor instead of the wooden floor.
  • Edge trims need to be installed permanently to the adjacent floor surface, never to the wooden floor. Cover strips need to be installed permanently to the subloor. If the edge trims or cover strips that are installed between the floor surfaces of two different rooms are fixed to both surfaces, the surfaces are locked in place and the natural expansion and shrinkage of the wooden floor is prevented. In such cases, the product-related liability for defects ceases to exist. T-lists must also always be fastened to the subfloor, not the wooden floor, with adhesive or screws.
  • Thresholds must always be fixed in a way that does not prevent the natural expansion and shrinkage of the wooden floor. For instance, skirting boards, rails, and thresholds must not be screwed through the wooden floor so that they lock the floor in place. The natural expansion and shrinkage of the wooden floor must also be allowed when installing the floor under doorframes.
  • In the case of sliding-door cabinets, an expansion gap (approx. 10 mm) must be created under the runner, and the runner is to be fastened to the wooden floor with short screws (12 mm) on the side of the cabinet.
  • Install the wooden floor so that each room contains a separate floor surface. Each separate floor surface is to be equipped with an expansion joint at the doorway, at which a threshold or a threshold trim is to be installed. An effort is to be made to install the floor in the shape of a square or rectangle. In the case of unconventionally shaped rooms (e.g., L, T, and U-shaped rooms), particular attention must be paid to ensure that the maximum dimensions are not exceeded and sufficient expansion joints are provided. In a situation where it is desirable to create a continuous floor surface in an unconventionally shaped room or to combine the floors or various rooms into a continuous floor surface, we recommend that the entire floor surface be glued to the underlay.
  • No protrusions or objects that prevent the expansion or shrinkage of the floor surface may be left in the floor. Expansion joints must not be filled with, e.g., cables.

Subfloor and moisture barrier

The subfloor must be even. In the case of products equipped with the Parla 5G-system, the allowed level deviation is ±2 mm/2 metres. The levelness is checked by placing a floorboard tongue against the subfloor and measuring the gap between the subfloor and the floorboard. Level differences that exceed the allowed level deviation must be levelled out by sanding or applying a suitable screed. The subfloor must be stable, solid, fixed, straight, dry, and clean. Please note that even small debris can make the floor uneven, which puts a strain on the floor.

Any fitted carpets and other similar soft surface materials must be removed. The underlay material must be as rigid as possible. Suitable subfloor materials include plywood, chipboard, concrete, tiles, marble, linoleum, PVC, and hardwood. Please note that an underlay that is equipped with a moisture barrier or a similar moisture seal (e.g., 0.2mm-thick PE plastic, seams overlapping for approx 20 cm or taped) must always be installed on concrete subfloors.

The humidity of the subfloor must be measured before the installation. We recommend that the humidity of the concrete subfloor be measured by a professional. Make sure that the entire subfloor area is dry (also under any stored construction materials). A DIY method for measuring the humidity of the subfloor is to cover it with an approximately 1m² piece of PE plastic film (that is tightly taped at the edges) for 24 hours. If moisture accumulates on the subfloor surface under the plastic film, the subfloor is too wet and the installation work must not be started. The precise moisture content of the subfloor can be determined with the aid of appropriate moisture meters. If the relative humidity of the subfloor exceeds 80% (maximum percentage of weight 3.0), DO NOT begin the installation!

Underfloor heating

Timberwise floors can safely be installed on an underfloor heating system. Larch is not recommended for installation with underfloor heating, unless a relative humidity between 35–60 RH can be constantly guaranteed. In drier conditions, cracks may appear in larch. The underfloor heating should be evenly distributed over the whole floor area. The subfloor must be allowed to dry for approximately two (2) weeks before installing the floor. Please follow the instructions below:

  • Increase the temperature daily by approximately +5°C until the heating effect is approximately 50% of the maximum. Do this in the summertime, as well.
  • Then, raise the underfloor heating temperature to the maximum for a period of 3 days.
  • Reduce the heating so that the surface temperature of the subfloor drops to +18°C. Make sure that sufficient ventilation is provided during the heating and cooling phases.
  • Install the floor in accordance with the instructions.
  • Increase the temperature gradually over a period of 5 days, and make sure that the surface temperature of the wooden floor never exceeds +27°C. Do not cover the floor even partially at this stage. Relative humidity must be kept at 35–60%. The recommended room temperature is +18–24°C.

In circumstances that deviate from this, the floor may expand or shrink to an exceptional degree. The manufacturer, seller, or installer cannot be held responsible for these kinds of changes.

The following matters must be taken into account when installing the floor on an underfloor heating system:

  • The surface temperature of the floor must not exceed +27°C. Please note that regular rugs increase the surface temperature of the floor by approximately +2°C.
  • Floor temperature may not regularly fluctuate more than 2°C (night electricity).
  • Regardless of the subfloor material, a moisture barrier must be used with the underfloor heating in connection with base floor solutions.
  • Use an expansion joint to separate the floor areas that are not equipped with underfloor heating from the areas that are.
  • We recommend that an at least 30 mm gap be left between the underfloor heating cables or pipes and the underlay material of the Timberwise wooden floor.
    • In the case of wooden floor structures, this gap contains air.
    • In the case of concrete floor structures, this gap contains a layer of screed.
  • If the underfloor heating cables or pipes are installed less than 30 mm away from the underlay material of the wooden floor, the surface temperature of the floor must not exceed +25°C

Underfloor cooling

Timberwise floors can also be installed on an underfloor cooling system, but in that case it is advisable to glue the wooden floor by the tongues and grooves regardless of the type of tongue and groove.

Preparations

Store the wooden floorboards in unopened packages (the storage facility must be dry, the relative humidity must be 35–60%, and the indoor temperature must be +18–24°C). Before the installation, the floor material must be stored for 2–3 days in conditions that are similar to the conditions (relative humidity and temperature) in the room in which it is to be installed. The packages are to be stacked on a flat surface in a way that lets air circulate between the packages. The packages must also be kept away from direct heat sources (such as radiators or direct sunlight). Do not open the packages until you begin the installation, and only open as many packages as are needed per day.

Make sure that the underlay materials (moisture barrier and impact sound insulation) and tools required in the installation are ready for use. Always check the suitability of the moisture barrier and sound insulation material for the Timberwise wooden floor from your retailer.

The underlay material must not be too thick (< 3.0 mm) or too flexible. The compression must not exceed 25% of the thickness of the material with a load of 2.4 tn/m² (DIN53577).

Required tools: metric measuring tape, marking pen, try square, installation wedges for the expansion joints, circular or crosscut saw, clamping device, tapping block, chisel, hammer, knife, and wood glue (PVA glue).

First, calculate the required number of floorboards. Measure the total width of the room with the metric measuring tape. Then, divide it by the width of a floorboard to determine how many complete rows of floorboards are to be laid in the room. Ensure that the last row of floorboards is wide enough (see section ‘Second floorboard, first row’). Do not forget to leave expansion joints. Use boards from different packages during the installation in order to create a floor that corresponds with the grade.

INSTALLING PARLA 5G-LOCKING SYSTEM PRODUCTS

When installing a floor that is equipped with the 5G-system, never hit the end tongue and groove. Instead, join the tongue and groove by pressing. If you hit the end tongue and groove, it may break. If the tongue and groove is damaged during installation, the floorboard in question must be replaced. A side tongue-and-groove joint requires a light tap along the long side of the floorboard.

The WiseLoc floor can be installed starting the installation directly against the wall (Figure 2). As the installation proceeds, remember to make sure that the wooden floorboards set properly, that the floor surface is even, and that no steps or level differences are left between the joints.

Installation directly against the wall

Install the first row of floorboards approximately 10 mm away from the end wall. Start at the corner, and install the floorboards from left to right so that the long bottom tongue of the tongue and groove points towards centre of the room. Place installation wedges between the end wall and the floorboard and push the floorboard against the wall. Later, (after installing three rows) you can place the installation wedges between the long wall and the floorboards with an approximately 10mm expansion joint (Figure 10). Note: If the wall is not straight, draw the outlines of the wall on the floorboards of the first row in the manner indicated in Figure 11/12.

Second floorboard, first row

Place the end of the second floorboard tightly against the end of the first floorboard at an approximately 45° angle in the longitudinal direction (Figure 3). Push the floorboard down in a single move (Figure 4). At the end of each row, measure the required length from the wall and make sure that a sufficient expansion joint (approx. 10 mm) is included (Figure 5). Tip: you can also turn the last floorboard over so that the locking end points towards the wall (remember to place an installation wedge between the floorboard and the wall) and mark the length on the floorboard. Cut the floorboard to the required length with a circular/crosscut saw (Figure 6), turn the floorboard the right way round (the cut end towards the wall), and install it in its place.

Starting the second row

Start the second row with a cut floorboard (Figure 7). Place an installation wedge between the wall and the floorboard. Note that the distance between the end joints in parallel board rows is, according to traditional visual recommendation, min. 2 x board width (e.g. 2 x 205 mm = 410 mm). NOTE. Technically, the product tolerates even smaller overlaps, such as 200 to 300 mm. (Figure 8).

Second floorboard, second row

Place the second floorboard tightly against the end of the first floorboard at an approximately 45° angle in the longitudinal direction. Gradually press the long-side tongue and groove of the floorboard down. Start the pressing from the right-hand end (NOT from the end tongue and groove that is to be joined). When the floorboard is almost in place and tightly pressed against the side tongue and groove of the previous row, press the end tongue and groove all the way down (Figure 9). Remember to lightly tap the long side of the floorboard.

The gap between the wall and the floorboard can be adjusted when the first three rows have been installed (Figure 10). Place wedges between the floorboards and the wall. Also remember to check that the wall is straight. At this point, measure the total width of the room and check whether the first row needs to be narrowed more than just in order to straighten the line of the wall (the recommended minimum width for the first and last row is 50 mm). Measure the total width of the room with the metric measuring tape. Then, divide it by the width of a floorboard to determine how many complete rows of floorboards are to be laid in the room. Also narrow the first row of floorboards if the width of the last row of floorboards is, according to your calculations, less than 50 mm.

If the wall is not straight, saw the first row of floorboards according to the outline of the wall. You can draw the outline of the wall on the first row of floorboards either by measuring the distance from the wall (with the metric measuring tape) with even intervals (Figure 11) or utilising a piece of board that is equipped with a drilled hole for a marking pen. Place one end of the piece of board against the wall and use it as guidance when drawing the line (Figure 12).

Then, detach the floorboards of the first row from each other by lightly pressing the joint with one hand and, at the same time, lifting the boards by the long side and pulling them upwards with the other hand (Figure 13). Saw the floorboards with a circular, hand, or keyhole saw according to the line you drew so that the floorboards follow the outline of the wall. Install the floorboards back in place (Figure 14).

If the floorboard must be narrowed, the spring of the WiseLoc end tongue and groove no longer locks the joint, which means that the end joints must be glued together. First, apply glue to the upper part of the tongue and groove and press it against the end tongue and groove of the preceding floorboard. Then, place a weight on top of the end joint to ensure that the glue sticks (Figure 15).

Last row (and possibly the first row as well)

The minimum width of the last row is 50 mm! If, however, the last board is less than 50 mm wide, it must be glued by its entire tongue and groove. Also remember to take the expansion joint (approx. 10 mm) into account. Use a measuring tape to determine the correct distance from the wall (Figure 16). Mark the sawing line as follows: Place the floorboard that is to be narrowed on top of the last installed row of floorboards. Take an approximately 30cm-long scrap piece and cut off the groove of the piece. Place the scrap piece on top of the floorboard to be narrowed so that the tongue of the floorboard points towards the wall. Draw the sawing line along the edge of the scrap piece (Figure 17), and saw the floorboard by the room side of the line. Put the sawed floorboard in its place (as instructed in Figure 14). Perform the same steps with the next floorboard. Install the skirting boards. The skirting boards are to be fastened to the wall, not the floor. Thresholds, edge trims, or threshold cover strips are to be used at doorways.

NOTE! In order to ensure the best possible result, check during the installation that the tongues and grooves interlock properly and that there are no height differences in the surface. This ensures that your new floor will be even and functional.

Corridors

In narrow corridors, avoid installing floorboards in the transverse direction, if possible. If, however, such installation cannot be avoided, reduce the ‘tension’ of the floorboard by sawing through the bottom layer of the board at a 45° angle (the cut must not be deeper than 6 mm). At least every third row of floorboards must be installed using extended boards.

Pipes and doorframes

Drill holes for radiator pipes in the floorboard, if necessary. The diameter of the holes must be at least 20 mm larger than the diameter of the pipes. Mark the points where the pipes are to go through the floorboard, drill suitable holes for the pipes, and cut the floorboard by sawing it at the centre of the holes (Figure 18). When you have installed the floorboard in its place, place the sawed piece on the other side of the pipes (Figure 19) and cover the holes with single or double pipe sleeves. The WiseLoc floorboards can be installed from any direction, if necessary. This facilitates the installation at, e.g., doorways. The WiseLoc system slides in the longitudinal direction, which facilitates the installation in challenging places where the floorboards must be pushed into place.

In the case of installation under a doorframe, place the floorboard as close to the doorframe as possible and tap the board lightly with a hammer to slide it into its place. (Note: cover the end tongue and groove if you must use a hammer.) If the doorframe must be sawed, determine the correct height with the aid of a wooden floorboard. Do not forget to leave an expansion joint.

If you are not able to slide the floorboard under, e.g., a doorframe or a radiator that is installed close to the floor, proceed as follows:

  1. Cut off a sufficient amount of the tongue and groove (Figure 20).
  2. Glue (Figure 21) and tap the floorboard into its place.

REMOVAL

Detach the boards by lifting them gently (Figure 24).

Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4
Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7
Picture 8 Picture 9 Picture 10
Picture 11 Picture 12 Picture 13
Picture 14 Picture 15 Picture 16
Picture 17 Picture 18 Picture 19
Picture 20 Picture 21  
 
Picture 22 Picture 23  
 

 

PARLAFIX (old locking system) PARQUET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Storage and installation instructions    Store parquet boards on a level and dry base with the packages intact. Parquet boards should be stored under conditions equivalent to those in which they are to be laid for at least 48 hours before installation. In new buildings the rooms to be floored must be adequately heated and ventilated to reduce structural moisture. The relative humidity of the air in the room during storage and installation must be 35 - 60 % and the temperature 18 - 24°C. When the floor is in use, too, it is desirable for the humidity and temperature to correspond to the installation conditions. When the relative air humidity is below 30%, there might appear cracking in the parquet between the boards and the surface layer, as well as dislodging, should the humidity decrease even further. Avoid subjecting the parquet boards to excessive bending as this may cause cracking of the varnish.

Requirements for the subfloor    It is recommended for board parquet to be always installed on a supporting substructure as a “floating floor”. The subfloor can be concrete, an existing wood floor or some other supporting foundation. The subfloor must be absolutely straight and level, as well as sufficiently dry and protected from moisture. If the parquet is installed on a new concrete subfloor, the relative humidity of the latter should be either according to the national regulations, or 80 % at maximum. Deviation in the flatness of the floor base can be up to 2-3 mm within a 2000 mm-length, depending on national requirements. Even out larger irregularities with a filler and sand the subfloor so that it is flawless and smooth. Then clean the subfloor carefully. Where necessary, a dampproofing and soundproofing material should be laid on the subfloor. A felt-based plastic floor covering or a felt floor covering are also suitable materials to lay under the parquet. Fitted carpets are too soft and should be completely removed. When choosing a material for the subfloor, attention should be paid to the regulations applying to soundproofing and dampproofing. Parla underlayment features both dampproofing and sound-proofing in the same product.

Vintage Collection: Chalet and Maison parquets    The parquets in the Vintage Collection display the knot features characteristic to natural materials as well as a deep variation of grain structure and colour. The surface of these industrially manufactured products is intentionally uneven, and their surface layer contains open knots and cracks. It is recommended to install the parquet flooring in such a way that the surface of the parquet has a uniform overall appearance. It is recommended to install any boards that differ in their pattern or hue separately to each other.

Complaints    Complaints about the quality of the goods should be sent within 7 days of receipt of the goods, however before installation of the parquet. When making a complaint, the code numbers on the packaging and the bottom of the board should be stated. The factory is not liable for mistakes caused by defective installation nor for faulty boards that have already been installed. The factory will not take back unused parquet boards.

Laying the parquet    To install board parquet you will need: a fine-toothed saw, hammer, drill, chisel, crowbar, knife, square, pencil, measure, string line, knocking block and wedges. Check each board before laying to ensure it is perfect and that there is no loose dirt or other material in the grooves. Clearly faulty boards must not be installed. Faulty boards will be changed for faultless boards without charge. With mechanical lock tongue and groove system the installation is fast and simple and no glue is needed. However, the profiles of Parla 5G-system are designed in a way, that also the use of glue is possible. We recommend gluing of end joints in places where heavy duty wear is anticipated. Ask more about gluing from your parquet dealer.

Underfloor heating    Board parquet can be installed on a subfloor with underfloor heating. Ask your dealer for separate installation instructions when laying board parquet on a subfloor with underfloor heating. Beech and maple are not suitable for installing on subfloors equipped with underfloor heating owing to its considerable shrinking and swelling with changing moisture levels. The surface temperature of the floor must not exceed 27°C. The maximum permissible relative humidity of the subfloor is 80%.

Fixed gluing to the subfloor    It is recommended that fixed gluing of boardparquet to the subfloor be done by a professional fitter.

Allowances for shrinking and swelling    A board parquet floor shrinks and swells according to the amount of moisture in the air, which means that, using wedges, a space of at least 10 mm must be left between the floor and fixed structures such as walls, door sills, door frames and stairs. Heavy fixtures (bookcases, cupboards) must also be separated from the parquet to allow for expansion. If the width of the floor exceeds 6 m in the direction of the breadth of the board, add a space of 2 mm for every additional metre. In rooms exceeding 8 m in width, an expansion joint must be made in the parquet. After the parquet has been laid remove the wedges and cover the expansion joint with skirting or beading.

1. 2. 3.
     
4. 5. 6.

 

The first rows of boards    Parquet is generally laid in line with the light from a window. Lay the first board with the side and end tongues towards the wall (picture 1). Proceed to lay the boards from left to right. If a board is too long, saw it to the right length. Cut the board so that an approx. 10 mm gap will be left between the end of the board and the wall. Tighten the end joints, as shown in the (picture 2), by lightly tapping the top of the board at the end joint. Use installation block on top of the board to prevent damage. The end joints of all the boards should be tightened in the same way. Start the next row of boards with the piece left over from the first row, thereby ensuring that the extension joints of adjacent rows are not in line. Note that the distance between the end joints in parallel board rows is, according to traditional visual recommendation, min. 2 x board width (e.g. 2 x 205 mm = 410 mm). NOTE. Technically, the product tolerates even smaller overlaps, such as 200 to 300 mm. Position the sawn end of the board towards the wall. Lightly fit the tongue on the long edge of the board into the groove in the previous board so that the board hangs slightly upwards under its own weight (picture 3). Do not twist the board into place. Lightly tap the board along the top of the side joint with the installation block until the board drops into place (picures 4 and 5). Lay the next board from above, with the end joint fitted firmly against the end of the previous board and fit the joint along the long edge into the previous board’s joint, letting the board hang slightly upwards under its own weight. Tap the board right along the side joint until it drops into place on the subfloor. Finally, tighten the end joint by lightly tapping over this joint. Once the second row has been laid, check that the rows are straight. Use diagonal measurements to position a cord representing the side of a rectangle, then make sure the first rows of boards are in line with this cord. If the room wall is not quite at ninety degrees to the adjacent wall, saw a board to the appropriate width and, using this as a guide, mark out a saw line along the first row of boards. Sawing along this line will ensure that the row of boards follows the line of the wall. Place wedges between the boards and the wall to allow for expansion. After this, you can systematically lay the remaining parquet boards without interruption.

The final row of boards    If the final row of boards is too wide, saw it to the right width. To obtain the right width, measure the distance between the previous row of boards and the wall and subtract 10 mm for the width of the expansion joints. Tighten the final row of boards with a crowbar. If there are obstacles (e.g. a radiator) along the wall preventing a board from bending, the nodule on the lower rim of the groove on the second from last board must be removed and glue applied to the joint (picture 6). To ensure that this glued joint holds, wedge the last board firmly against the previous one.

Other considerations

Doorways    Always leave a 10 mm expansion joint in doorways. Cover the joint with a door sill or beading. Fix the beading over the expansion joint so that movement of the parquet is not hindered. Cut or saw door frames so that there is sufficient room for the parquet to expand and so that the parquet goes under the frame. If a board will not fit normally into the groove, follow the instructions for laying the final row of boards.

Pipes    For heating pipes, drill a hole through the board that is approx. 20 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe. From the edge of the board saw off the piece that reaches the hole. Glue the sawn piece in place when the parquet board has been fixed. The gap between the pipe and the parquet can be covered with, e.g. a plastic fitting. The distance between radiators and the floor must be at least 60 mm. Narrow spaces If the parquet is installed crosswise, e.g. in an entrance hall, a joint must be put in at least every other row of boards.

Finishing    Board parquet is finished in the factory and needs no further surface treatment. After laying, remove the wedges between the floor and wall before fixing skirting or beading. Fix skirting or beading to the wall but not so tightly that the floor is prevented from moving freely. For possible small gaps and holes, use a filler of a suitable colour.

Re-installation    If already installed Parla parquet flooring has been taken up, the end grooves need to be re-glued during re-installation.

Protecting the floor before use    The floor must be protected with a permeable material, such as paper, in case finishing works etc. will be carried out in the room after the floor has been installed. Special attention must be given to the choice of protective material, so that it would not stain, scratch or do other damage to the finished floor. Protections must be attached to one another. Under no circumstances should the protection be taped to the parquet in order to avoid damage.

The recycling and disposal of waste    Plastic, cardboard and wood waste can be recycled or disposed of, e.g. by burning, depending on local regulations. Dispose of metal waste with other metal waste or recycle it.