Installation of wood floorings

Before starting, read the installation manual carefully.   Wood is a living natural material, and every floorboard is unique. Wooden floors have been dried to have a moisture content of 8-10%, which reduces the amount of cracks in the floor. However, due to the moisture expansion of wood, small cracks may appear in the flooring, varying from season to season according to changes in the relative humidity of air. For those floors which have not been surface-treated, we recommend puttying any possible branch spots before the floor is polished and surface-treated. Any possible height differences between the floorboard ends can be removed by sanding. In case you notice a faulty floorboard during the installation process, do not install it, but have a retailer replace it with a proper one. The manufacturer is not liable for any faults caused by installation not in accordance with the installation manual, or faulty floorboards which have already been installed.

Storing    Parla wooden floors are stored on a straight and dry base in unopened packs. In new buildings, rooms must be heated and aired sufficiently in order to reduce any construction moisture. When stored and installed, the relative humidity (RH) of the room must be 40-60 %, with a temperature between 18–24 °C. Further relative humidity and temperature levels must also be in accordance with the installation conditions.

Requirements for the base    The smoothness requirements of the base must adhere to national regulations, or a 3 mm difference within a length of 2 mm is acceptable. [(According to the SisäRyl2000 requirement). Larger differences are fixed with fillers, as well as sanding so that the base would not have any fissures or lumps. Afterwards, the base is cleaned thoroughly.

Floor heating    Wood is a naturally warm and pleasant material. Floor heating must aim for a steady floor temperature; and the surface temperature of the floor must never exceed 24°C. The quotidian change in temperature can be 5 °C at most. So that the floor would change as little as possible during the heating season, the room’s relative humidity must be between 40–60 %, with a temperature between 18–24 °C. The floorboards and brackets must be sufficiently dry before installation. In floor heating areas, the floorboards will change more than usual, which must be taken into account when positioning them. Professional experience is a prerequisite for installation. Further instructions on how to install floor heating under wooden floors must be requested from the manufacturer or retailer of the specific floor heating system.

Tools and equipment    Tools and equipment necessary for the installation: a fine-teeth saw, hammer, drill or cordless drill, 3.5 mm drill bit, screwdriver, chisel, installation plate, installation wedges, knife, try-square, pen, tape measure, closed cell plastic foam or felt, a sheet of rough sandpaper, a line of wire, driving block, sunk-head screws (e.g. 3.5x50 mm) and PVA glue.

Room for dimensional instability     Wooden floor shrinks and expands according to changes in the relative humidity level, which is why it is necessary to have at least a 5 mm gap between the floor and the walls, and the doorways; for the dimensional instability of wood. It is also necessary to leave a similar gap around, for example, pipes, thresholds, frames, pillars, fixtures and stairs. When the floor is connected to another floor, there has to be a 5 mm gap between the floors.When installed floating, there has to be at least 10 mm between the floor and any fixtures such as walls, thresholds and staircases; using wedges if necessary. In spaces with a width exceeding 6 m, floorboards must be fitted with expansion joints. After the floor has been installed, the wedges are removed, and the gaps are hidden by baseboards or skirting boards.

Gluing onto the base     It is recommended that Parla floor boards are glued onto the base by a professional.


Installation on supports  (Pine 4XL)

Puulattian asentaminen

Requirements for the base when installing on supports    Before installing ensure that the floor supports are positioned evenly. Then place closed cell plastic foam or felt strips on top of the supports (image 1). The floorboards are attached onto the supports by sunk-head screws at about a 45-degree angle from the corner of the tenon (image 2). First drill a slanted hole through the floorboard from the tenon corner. Then attach the floorboard to the support with a screw in such a way, that the floorboard is tightly secured on the support. Screws must be fastened sunk in the tenon. The space between supports may be a maximum of 600 mm for 26 mm thick floorboards. Floors are usually installed in the direction of light coming through a window. Use glue only in the end tenons, never on the long sides when installing on supports (image 3).

First row of boards     Put the alignment wire next to the wall. If the wall is not straight, draw and saw the wall shape (using a rotary saw, for example) on the floorboards of the first row. Then install the first board at least 5 mm from the wall in such a way that the grooves of the board sides and ends are facing the wall (image 4). Attach the first floorboard in the direction of the alignment wire vertically from the surface of the board to the support as close to the wall for the screws to be covered by the skirting board installed later. Then screw the front side of the board onto the support. Spread glue on the end groove of another board (image 5). Install the second board into the end tongue of the first board. Using a damp cloth, immediately wipe away any glue possibly bursting out from between the end joints. When installing oiled floorboards, be particularly careful about glue not overflowing from between the joints. Glue may cause discolorations in oiled surfaces. When using the alignment wire, check whether the first row of boards is straight. Place wedges between the first row of boards and the wall to ensure it stays put while you install the other rows of boards (image 6).

Cutting a board    When you have to cut a board at the end of a row, rotate the board next to the previous board so that the tongues are opposite each other. Push the end of the board’s groove to the wall. Mark the cutting line so that there is at least a 5 mm gap between the end of the installed board and the wall (image 7).

Tightening end joints    Spread glue onto the end groove and tighten the board using the crow bar (image 8). The first row of boards is complete. Start the next row of boards with the leftover piece of the cut board.

Second row of boards    Put the tapping tool next to the board and hit along the side of the board, starting with the so-called free end of the board, i.e. the sawed end next to the wall (image 9). It is important that there are no adjacent joints next to each other within the same support (image 10).

Last row of boards    The width of the last row of boards can be measured by placing it on the penultimate row of boards. Then take a short piece of a floorboard and place it upside down on top of a board to be cut, with the tongue attached to the wall. Draw the sawing line alongside the groove. The groove of the last row of boards can easily be enlarged by sand paper, which will help with the installation. Tighten the last row of boards with the tapping tool. Attach the last row of boards vertically from the board surface onto the supports so close to the wall that all screws will be hidden by the skirting board to be installed later (image 11).

Installation on a floor base (Pine 3X)

The Pine 3X floor boards can be installed for example directly onto 21 mm thick plywood that is tongued and grooved on all sides. In this case, floorboards are attached to the sheets of plywood with e.g. 3.5x40 mm sunk-head screws from the corners of tongues at about a 45-degree angle. Every floorboard should be attached to the plywood with four screws equally spaced so that there are screws also at each end, about 10 cm from the end of the boards. Otherwise, installation instructions are the same as for installation on supports.

Floating installation (Pine 3X)

Requirements for the base in case of floating installation It is possible to use floating installation with Pine 3X, installing them onto concrete, an old wooden floor or other supporting base. The base must definitely bee straight and smooth, as well as sufficiently dry and protected from moisture. If the floor is installed on concrete, the relative humidity of concrete must adhere to national regulations or be 80 % at most.

Room for dimensional instability    In case of floating installation, there must be at least a 10 mm gap between the floor and fixtures such as walls, thresholds and stairs. In spaces with a width exceeding 6 m, floorboards must be fitted with expansion joints. After the floor has been installed, the wedges are removed, and the gaps are hidden by baseboards or skirting boards.

An underlay material is spread onto the base, which will act as a moisture barrier and acoustic insulation barrier, if necessary. A felt-based plastic carpet or a woven blanket are also suitable underlay materials. Wall-to-wall carpets are too soft and they should be fully removed. When choosing the underlay material, acoustic insulation and moisture barrier requirements should be taken into account. The Parla underlayment is a combination of a moisture barrier and acoustic insulation within the same product. This product is available from Parla retailers.

Glue is spread on the groove of the board, as well as the end and side grooves of the board. Otherwise, installation instructions are the same as for installation on supports.

Lead-in     For pipes, a hole at least 10 mm larger than the pipe diameter (approx. 20 mm larger when installed floating) is drilled into the floorboard. The part reaching the hole is sawed from the edge of the board. When the board has been attached, the sawn piece is glued in place, and the crack around the pipe is hidden with a cover board (image 12). The distance between heaters and the floor must be at least 60 mm.

Doorframes    Check that the new floor fits under an open door. When necessary, the door frame is cut in such a way, that the floor will fit well underneath it. If possible, install the floor to such a length that the threshold would hide the joint. The floor must be able to move in relation to floors in adjacent rooms. In case the floors are not on the same level (e.g. areas of renovation), the threshold is increased with a baseboard, from the side of the lower floor surface. In openings without thresholds, skirting boards are used (metal or wood).

Protecting the floor before use    The floor must be protected with a non-moisture proof material, such as paper, in case finishing and similar works are done in the room after the installation. Great care must be given to the choice of protective material, so that it would not discolour, scratch or otherwise damage the installed floor. All protective covers must be attached to each other. In order to avoid damages, it is forbidden to tape protective covers onto wood floorings.